Ribes
Planting and Culturing Guide
Currants and Gooseberries
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Currants
and gooseberries are a small fruit that were
well-known in this country earlier in the last
century and are now making a comeback. These
are ideal fruits for those sections of the country
with a minimum of 1000 hours of winter chilling
(zones 3 to 7).
Today's
currant and gooseberry varieties have been bred
for disease resistance, and the varieties Nourse
Farms carries are either highly resistant or
immune to White Pine Blister Rust disease. Check
with your local Cooperative Extension office
or Department of Agriculture for any restrictions
to growing Ribes in your area. You can expect
to harvest currants and gooseberries during
late June or July.
NOTE:
We cannot ship plants to Massachusetts residents
without a permit. Various towns are excluded.
Contact us for details.
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Special
Consideration--Cross Pollination
It is recommended that two different varieties of
black currants be planted to facilitate cross-pollination
and a larger crop.
Planting
Plant currants and gooseberries in good, well drained
soil that contains at least 2-3% organic matter. Planting
on a slight slope will facilitate air drainage. Avoid
southern facing slopes since intense sun may injure
the plants. The soil pH should be between 6.0 to 6.5.
Black Currants
Set black currants 3-4 feet apart in the row. Spacing
between rows should not be less than 6 feet.
Special consideration for Titania:
space 4-5 feet apart in the row.
Pruning to a Bush
As soon as plants are in the ground each branch should
be pruned back to two buds showing just above the
soil. Do not leave any branches to bear fruit because
this will delay plant development. At the end of the
first year, two to three branches along with some
weak shoots should have sprouted and grown. Prune
out all the new, weak shoots and cut back all branches
so that you are left with one or two main branches.
Bushes should be pruned every year to prevent the
accumulation of too much old wood and to encourage
the production of strong new growth. Since black
currants crop most heavily on one-year old wood, your
pruning is meant to stimulate new growth and take
out older growth. With this objective, in subsequent
years, prune back three or four of the oldest branches
to strong new growth, or to the base of the branch.
Your objective is for 6-8 good branches per plant
that are continually renewed.
Gooseberries and Red Currants
Set gooseberries and red currants 3 to 4 feet apart
in the row. Plants should be set slightly deeper than
they were in the nursery. Rows should be spaced at
least 6 feet apart for gooseberries and red currants.
Pruning
Red currants and gooseberries fruit most heavily on
the spurs (short branches) that occur on 2-3 year
old branches. Your pruning task will be approximately
the same for both groups of plants, so they will be
described together. You can grow currants and gooseberries
in a bush form or as a 'cordon' (espalier) form for
a trellis.
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Single Trunk Bush
Save one vertical shoot from the first year's
growth. Cut shoot back to 10-12 inches or half
of its length (whichever is longest).
The
second year, select three or four strong side
shoots near the top of the main shoot that are
spaced evenly around the main shoot. Cut these
side shoots back to half their length to an
outward facing bud. In the third year, select
two or three leaders from each of the side shoots
that are facing out from the center at different
angles.
Cut
back all other growth to one or two buds. Maintain
growth habit by cutting back leaders to half
their length and all other laterals to one bud.
Remove any lateral growth or suckers below the
soil line. Cut out old or diseased wood.
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Cordon
Single, double, or triple cordons can be used for
tighter spacing and easier harvesting. Cut back the
first year growth to one main branch. The second year,
cut back a single cordon by 1/2 its new growth. Double
cordons require that two strong shoots be tied down
during the second season to a horizontal position.
Triple cordons have two horizontal shoots and one
central, vertical shoot. Winter prune the horizontal
shoots to an upright bud and the central shoots to
1/2 their growth. Cut any side shoots back to one
bud and remove any low growth or suckers. The third
year, cut back vertical cordons by one-half of their
growth and trim side shoots back to one bud. Many
other variations can be developed from the basic cordon
theme.
Read
more about cordon training...
Fertilization
No fertilization is needed during the planting
year. The second year and subsequent years, you
can use 5 oz. of 10-10-10 per plant. Fertilizer may
be applied all in the spring, or split with one-half
applied in the spring, and one-half applied in the
summer.
Weeding
Mulches such as straw, sawdust, or wood chips can
be applied at 2 to 4 inches thick. Mulches help conserve
moisture and keep down weeds. Clean cultivation can
also be practiced by either hand-pulling weeds or
using a scuffle hoe. Please contact your local Cooperative
Extension service for advice on using chemical weeding
methods.
Foliage
Diseases including powdery mildew and rust can
hurt growth or defoliate the plant completely. Planting
in shaded areas can make this problem worse. Benomyl
and/or sulfur-based fungicides or Stylet oil work
best. Be careful as some gooseberry varieties are
sensitive to sulfur. Newer fungicides Nova and
Cabrio are labeled to control these diseases.
Ordering
information
We recommend that you order as soon as possible. Once
ordered, the plants will be reserved in your name
and will be sent when you are ready to plant. Most
orders are sent UPS Ground to arrive prior to the
weekend. If you want the plants to arrive on a specific
date we would recommend our 2 or 3 day service. For
larger orders air freight or LTL service is recommended.
IF
you are planning to plant on a Monday or Friday we
recommend receiving the plants on Thursday or Friday
and storing them in a cool or refrigerated place until
you are ready to plant. We do not recommend storing
the plants more than seven days. If you need to delay
shipment please provide at least 3 days notice. You
shouldn't have plants shipped until the planting site
is prepared, so planting occurs within a few days
if not immediately upon arrival.
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